Saturday, July 10, 2010

Switzlerand and Return

Hello all,

This will be the last installment of this blog, unless Andrew chooses to continue it during his 3 week journey in Ghana, West Africa.

We spent two days in Switzerland. The French spoken there is quite different than the Parisian French, of course, so sometimes it was difficult even for Andrew to be understood. We arrived in the afternoon, a few hours before the next gig, and checked into the youth hostel where we would be staying. The room was very nice, but nothing compared to the views.

It was impossible to look up and see anything but beauty. Mountains everywhere, so many that Jess just wanted to bundle them up and take them home with her. We walked the path along Lake Geneva to the festival, enjoying shops and the view. Andrew took many pictures of the flowers, as well as a video of "jazz on a boat:" a trumpet player and a tuba player, playing Honeysuckle Rose on a boat (it has been posted to Andrew's facebook and youtube accounts if you are interested). That was the atmosphere. Beauty everywhere, music everywhere, and people everywhere reveling in it.

Andrew joined RCJ to get set up for the gig, while Jess went to the audience to get set up to take a video. It was the 2nd to last concert, and again, the sound guys were wonderful. Overall the program went well; one tune had been played by Woody Herman some odd years before at the festival, and one of the members of the audience had been there at that time.

After the gig, Andrew and Jess went to dinner with some of our favorite members of RCJ. It was a lovely dinner of pizza with some good conversation on the side. It wasn't nearly as hot in Switzerland because of the altitude, and that was a relief. The evening breeze was also welcome. Jess bought some wrap pants on the way back, her favorite :-). We went back to the concert venue and listened to the last two big bands before heading back to the youth hostel for some sleep.

We had to check out of the hostel by 10 am, which was super frustrating. There was also some confusion about where exactly we were storing our stuff, so we took shifts guarding it throughout the day. Andrew and Jess had some yummy sushi for lunch! then started to get ready for the gig, which was earlier than the day before. Last night Andrew had met a guitar player from the big band that was playing before us, so they re-connected. He was a nice kid, good ol' British bloke. They wanted to get a jam session going but were unable to because of time constraints. Those musicians, always networking :)

The last gig was the best gig, overall. Everyone played their hearts out and were happy to play one of their favorite tunes, Shiny Stockings. Jess recorded the whole thing, to the excitement of the band. After the gig, Andrew and Jess went to dinner by ourselves, finding a nice little restaurant with a view of the sunset, and some yummy mussels for an appetizer (Jess's first time having them).

Before long, it was time to head to the final meeting place, and board the bus for our overnight drive to Paris, where we would get on the flight home (or, at least to the Twin Cities). We both slept well, and then had an adventure trying to return the instruments before we could go to the airport. We had to show our passports no less than 7 times before we could get on the plane, twice before checking in, twice between checking in and security, once for security, then once for the lady at the gate, and then another time for employees frisking every 3rd person who got on the plane. Of course Jess got picked for the patdown. Lovely. Good thing she checked her pepper spray! There may have been another time we had to show our passports, but we were all so tired, can't remember.

Finally, we were allowed to board the plane and settle in. There were better movies playing this time, and the food was really really good airplane food, though there wasn't nearly enough of it. Because it was a daytime flight, we were able to look outside and see the ground/ocean when the clouds cleared. We saw the entire tip of Greenland, which was really cool, and then Canada--which looks like a giant mud pie. At first, Jess thought we were flying over the Gulf of Mexico because of the giant brown swirls, but then she saw three houses together and realized it was Canada ;-)

After landing in the Twin Cities, we had to go through customs, which was a pain. The guy was a douche to Jess. But it is worse for visitors, who have to get fingerprinted and photographed half a billion times before they're allowed in. After customs, we parted ways with the majority of RCJ, except for one lone saxophonist who was also flying to Milwaukee because she lives there. After checking in, we met up to exchange pictures and videos and to eat some dinner. She is a wonderful person, and a good contact for Andrew in the music world. Finally, her flight was leaving, so Andrew and Jess headed out on their own to the gate.

Once we landed in Milwaukee, we discovered that the flight to Appleton was delayed and possibly cancelled because of thunderstorms in 3 different spots around the country. After traveling over 24 hours already, and facing the prospect of waiting another 5 in an airport for a flight that may never come, we decided to call friends. Patty and Carl were darling and came to get us, bringing the two of us sleepy people back to Appleton before our flight would have even gotten in to Milwaukee.

Once back, we collapsed and slept for a good long while, having traveled for 33 hours in order to get back to Appleton. Of course, Andrew was not yet quite home, but he had a few days to recover before flying back to D.C. this morning. Overall, a lovely trip, and one we will remember well :)

Andrew and Jess

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

France: Days 7-11

Day 7: Drive to Paris
So many mornings waking up very early to get on a bus and then going to sleep on said bus until early afternoon. Today was no exception. Good thing Jess can fall asleep anywhere. Andrew, on the other hand, has issues with needing fluffy pillows and soft blankets. The crazy schedule makes it even harder to keep track of the days! We were a little sad to leave England so soon but with St. Brice, Paris, and Luxeil-des-Bains ahead, who could really be that upset?

We took a ferry to cross the Channel, which was pretty cool. Jess had never been on a ferry before and got a little sea sick but it worked out alright. After the ferry, there was of course more riding in the bus. Finally we arrived about 5 pm to a little camp outside of St. Brice. What a feast our French hosts prepared for us! After England's fare, Jess was super excited to see vegetables! There was also plenty of champagne and wine, and lots of hosts who kept pouring it. RCJ ate and drank and talked until very late; then Andrew and Jess watched a movie on the laptop under the stars.

Day 8

The next morning we woke up early again, this time to head to Paris for the day! Jess fell asleep on the bus when Andrew went to go pick up a drumset; unfortunately we were separated for a bit, but were able to reconnect at Notre Dame. We didn't climb the tower because it was over 90 degrees F (no idea what it was celsius but it was ridiculously hot and very dusty). We grabbed a quick bite for lunch then headed to the Louvre. It was ridiculously hot and crowded inside even though it was a week day (we think?) so we just picked a few pieces we really wanted to see: the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Venus de Milo. We did see a few others en route but Jess doesn't really remember it as she was close to passing out on a few occasions from the heat. Finally we made our way to the air conditioned Starbucks for some calories and some rest. Maybe it was cheating, but we'd rather cheat than faint. It was also here that we hit the jackpot on some gifts :-)

We caught up with some of the other members of RCJ who had stopped at a pub for wifi and had gotten rather shnockered, which was amusing. Then they were walking too slowly and we still needed to do the Arc'du'Triomph (sp?) and the Eiffel Tower and dinner, all before the meeting time at 10:00 pm. So we lost them for a bit on the Champs de'Ellyse (sp?) and grabbed a pizza; then booked it to the Arc d'Triomph. It was so intricate and ornate: the sun was starting to set a bit. We also saw the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier there from WWI, and his eternally burning flame.

Then we took the metro? subway? whatever they call it in France. To the Eiffel Tower. The lines for the elevator were far too long for us to make it in time for the meeting so we opted for the stairs. Jess wasn't feeling too well after sprinting up staircases, so we sat on the first level and watched the sun start to set on the people down below. From there we could see a Basilica, the Basilica du Sacre-Cour, which we planned to see the next day. It was a marvelous sight, and we were sad to have to go back to St. Brice to spend the night. But! we'd be back tomorrow. Of course, that designated meeting place, the Hilton hotel, didn't exist anymore, so that... was fun. Anyway, we found where they meant.

Day 9: Sacre-Cour
What a mixed up morning this was, mainly because of the bus needing to get its "air-con" fixed and having to find a shop and the French take 3 hours lunch breaks which irritated our English driver to no end, so on and on and on... But finally we made it into Paris and took the train to Sacre-Cour, a basilica on the very top of a high hill. We climbed stairs after stairs (Jess will have thighs of steel before the end of this trip) and finally made it to the Basilica, but then we couldn't get in because Jess was wearing shorts (the hussy). So we wandered around the shops and the Square where the painters were painting and trying to sell their pretty paintings. We each bought one for our apartments when we get back to Wisconsin so that we can remember the scenery when it is cold and grey and white for months on end :-) We also bought a scarf for Jess to wrap around her legs as a skirt to be decent enough for God.

The Basilica is made of a stone that whitens and hardens as it ages, and it sparkles in the sun. It is beautiful (there's that word again) and the climb was well worth it. The train ride back to St. Brice, however... now that is an experience we would not want to repeat. We were supposed to meet up at the same meeting place as yesterday to take the bus back but then it was switched to taking the train all the way back from Paris. Then we got a big confused going between the Paris metro to the suburban metro. And then we accidentally got on an express train that skipped our stop and the next 3. Oh, and it started to rain. But, at least that broke the heat wave, which was a massive relief to all. The metros aren't air-conditioned and don't even have fans, and I honestly don't think the French have invented deodorant yet.
Jess
After we got back to St. Brice, there was a gig at a theatre nearby. Jess got the whole thing on video, except for one song, Aquarius, which Andrew has a solo in. Oops. But, there are many other copies of it from previous gigs, so don't be too mad at her. Plus there is still Montreaux! It was a wonderful time, very well received. The audience loved it and sweltered in the heat (the poor band members had to deal with the heat as well as the lights, which exacerbated the problem greatly). Apparently because it so rarely gets that hot there nothing has any air conditioning. Which makes sense, except when one is irrationally overheated. No one fainted though, thank goodness, and afterward there was a reception with lots of wine and champagne. As Lynn, one of the saxophonists often remarked, when we get back to the States we're going to need a little blood in our alcohol stream. Because, when we got back to the camp where we stayed, the chef, cooks, and other camp staff were drinking beer out on front outside the kitchen area. Andrew's French came into good use here; he remembers a good deal more than he thought he would. However, we both think we're going to redo the American school system's method of teaching a foreign language because the way they do it now is silly and impractical.

Day 10
Wake up very early. Drive 8 hours on bus. This has become habit. Today we were driving to the South of France, Luxeuil-les-Bains. It is a darling little town, and there is a distinct difference in their French from the Parisians. The RCJ played at the Basilica there. It was very boomy, but the sound guys did an excellent job at controlling that. The gig was the most well-advertised of the ones RCJ had played so far, and there were about 400 people in attendance. Maribeth (Mitch's wife) sold about 50 CDs, the most we had sold so far. There were posters all over town when we had gone exploring before the gig, which was fun to see!

That night we were with host families, as we would be for the next night as well. Our host family was composed of Elizabeth and Jean-Phillippe, both of whom did not speak a lot of English, but between what they knew and what Andrew knew of French, we got along just fine. There was a small incident in which we couldn't figure out how to tell them that we were full and not hungry, but when it was all sorted out it was very funny.

Day 11: 4th of July!
Today we toured the little museum and climbed the tour of Luxeuil-les Bains. There is history everywhere in Europe, and this town was no exception. Then we boarded the bus to see a cherry distillery where they produce kirsche and absinthe. That was interesting. The next part was, Jess thinks, the best part. We visited a WWII memorial and cemetery, because our hosts thought it was fitting given the date. After visiting, we heartily agreed. It was haunting. The guide was a wonderful Californian; it was almost strange to hear English in an American accent. He explained who is in charge of the overseas memorials, how many they are, and what their purpose is. He also thanked us over and over for visiting, because about 90% of the visitors who come to the memorial/cemetery are French. He said, tell everyone you know if they go abroad, to visit a war memorial/cemetery, because they are all over Europe, and the French haven't forgotten what we did for them--we shouldn't.

Jess stumbled on the grave of Cleon Newsome, and the state he was from is Georgia, which is where her paternal grandfather's family is from. She's planning on doing more research on it when we get back to the States. Andrew took lots of pictures. We were there at 5, which is when they play the French national anthem, the Star-Spangled Banner, and Taps. It was a solemn thing to experience. Not exactly fireworks, but we thought it worked just fine.

We boarded the bus to go to a nearby town (the name of which escapes us both at the moment) where they were having an annual cherry festival. The region is famous for their kirsch, a liquor made from cherries, and much of their income comes from then. The festival was very similar to a county fair in the States, and it was a lot of fun. Our hosts had prepared a special surprise for us: some of the dancers had learned some line dancing. That was amusing, and we hope they weren't disappointed that none of us knew any line dancing :( The food was wonderful, and of course, lots more wine.

It was after midnight when we got back to the host family's house, yawning and ready to fall asleep. The next day, we headed to Switzerland!

PS. Haven't been able to upload photos in Switzerland; we're working on it, though, and will hopefully have some up soon!

Monday, July 5, 2010

HELLO WIFI!

This is going to be one of the longest blogs ever but Andrew and Jess have been out of wifi while in France: the entirety of the last 5 days. It has been rather agonizing to be without it, so many things piling up for the blog but no way to tell them! To catch you up:

Day 6:
Today our host families gathered all of the members of RCJ and guests for a tour of the northern English countryside including several main attractions. We woke up very early and began our bus ride to a castle, complete with tapestries, which has now been turned into a hotel. It had lovely grounds and of course there was tea waiting for us. First, Andrew took pictures in the garden. Next stop, an old train station, which Andrew really enjoyed. We made our first purchases at the train station's gift shop. Andrew bought some bells and Jess bought some little gifts. No spoilers here, though!
Next we drove to Durham to see a gorgeous castle. Andrew and Jess climbed all the way to the top. The stairs were very narrow towards to top and even though Jess didn't exactly get claustrophobic, she was definitely glad to see light when there were windows. The view was breath-taking! Breath-taking views and overly warm buses would be a theme for us the next few days in England.

After the cathedral was lunch, a hurried affair eaten on the run. Then we drove to a lighthouse, St. Mary's Lighthouse in Northern England. It was beautiful and of course we hurried to climb to the top before the tide came in. We took loads of pictures and Jess played in the water, splashing at everything. Watching the tide come in so quickly was a real treat! Pictures to come soon!

Finally we went to dinner at a pub that RCJ basically invaded. It was right next to the water as well: the whole day was a theme of docks and beaches.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Day 5: English culture and gardens

It's been so nice to be here in England. The people here are wonderful; they are so hospitable! It's always scary to stay in people's houses that you don't know. You never know if they're going to be clean or if they're going to be strange or what they're going to be, but everyone here has been simply magnanimous in their hospitality. Everyone is kind and gracious. It's been a great way to travel. We have stayed in some hotels but mostly we will be staying with Rotarians. I think it's a better way to learn about the culture--living with people who live here every day. They stay up late with us every night after concerts, plying us with tea and beer and juice, laughing when all Jess wants is a big tall glass of water.

Jess's favorite accent is the Liverpool one, but Andrew thinks he prefers the London accent--it's a little more modern sounding and slightly easier to understand when people are talking really fast.

Of course, one of our favorite parts of being around here has been the English gardens. Andrew has taken lots of pictures and we've both enjoyed it very much.

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Day 4: Steak and Strawberries

This morning Andrew and Jess both had a rather difficult time getting up. Jess is actually having a very hard time beginning this blog post because she is tired and wants to go to sleep instead.

Today the RCJ played at a "steak and strawberries" barbecue dance. It was pretty adorable; more old people dancing with each other, which does Jess's cynical old heart good to see.

Before that we had had strawberries at one of our host families houses, and the strawberries were from her garden behind the house. They were soooooooooo good. The traditional dish is a plain scone, smothered with butter, then cream, then strawberry jam, and finally topped with cut strawberries. It was a-maz-ing! Also, the cheerful lady, Ann, who hosted the afternoon hang said that, for guests of their house, tea was not optional...it was obligatory. Ann had a beautiful little brunette border collie named Sally that Jess is going to try to smuggle home on the plane. Both Ann and Andrew (and Ann's husband and grandchildren) will be unhappy if Jess succeeds with this plan.

Jess shot some video of the event and hopefully we will have that updated soon; until then, check out the new photos on facebook if you can.

Andrew had a much better drumset experience this evening; the hardware was actually from this decade! The band played a lot of older swing tunes at "medium-jump tempo"; Finally, all those 'dance band' gigs are paying off!

Now, Jess and Andrew are going to find Z, the last letter of the alphabet. Or in the words of our host for tonight, "I am feeling quite wilted". Goodnight.

Friday, June 25, 2010

Day 3 - Liverpool

Day 3 feels like day 2, very much because of the entire 24 hours we spent traveling.

This morning we had breakfast at the Devonshire House Hotel--the brands for things are the same but not always the product. Jess had "Wheat and Fruit" for breakfast!

We met up with some of the other band members as well as Rotarians who are hosting us went exploring Liverpool. We saw the street where the Beatles got a bit of there start--and met Sam Leach! It was rather interesting, for sure. We tried to find some Beatles' memorabilia, but even with as many shops as there were, they didn't have much of anything. We also explored St. George's museum--so beautiful! Jess may make an album entirely out of pictures from that.

We ate lunch at The Grapes, where an early picture of the Beatles was taken. Then we set out on our own, away from the group to explore! We found a huge outdoor mall, which was beautiful. Andrew had to find some shoes for him this evening's concert, so we worked on that. We ate dinner at Subway--terribly American but we were running late to get back to the hotel and change before the concert. It is terribly embarrassing to be an American abroad?? Andrew has been trying his hand at his British accent when it is just the two of us, but has yet to be brave enough to try it on a real Britain. We were thinking of carrying a Canadian flag or wearing buttons saying "we voted for Obama" so that people will be nicer to us. Unfortunately we brought neither :-( It is rather strange. A woman on the street asked Andrew for directions, but as soon as she heard him answer, she went "OH." rudely.

In contrast, the reception for the big band at the Rotarians' club was overwhelmingly well-received!! It was just outside of Liverpool. A rather elderly English gentleman named Graham, who Andrew referred to as "crusty," supplied the drums. He has been playing drums since 1926--his cymbals, drumkit, and hardware was from when he came to New York in the 1940s. For any drummers – the kit was an 5-piece Rogers kit in a beautiful blue wrap, the cymbals were various Zildjians from the 50s, a Ufip crash from the 70s, and 16” china with 2 rivets. Also, the cymbal felts were foam reinforced with duct tape and the wingnuts were literally "nuts". Dave, our bassist, was playing on an electric upright and Mike, our piano player was playing on a toy Yamaha keyboard. You know, the one that everyone has in their basement...

Anyways, Graham told many stories, some of which Andrew could understand… After he came over from England and landed in Newfoundland, he joined the Scottish 148th Airborne band, because he couldn't join the musicians' union. Fast forward 70 years- He's still playing in a big band based in Liverpool! There were adorable little old couples dancing -- it is one of Jess's favorite things to see little old people dancing. One even invited the vocalist, Amy, to dance with him!

We got back to the hotel and of course immediately updated the blog. We both brought a travel journal but have yet to write in them; hopefully tonight we'll have some more time, but we also have the "steak and strawberries" barbecue and dance to go to! Today we also leave Devonshire House and Hotel to go to a Rotarian host family -- more to come!

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Day 1 and 2: Travel & Arrival

HELLO!

Welcome to the adventures of Andrew and Jess; our 2 week tour of Europe with the River Cities Jazz Band.

Our first flight from Appleton to Milwaukee was cancelled so we were given ground transportation to MKE to make our connecting flight. We flew from MKE to the Twin Cities, where we met up with the rest of RCJ. First things first, dinner at Chili's in the airport: MARGARITAS!

Then we finally boarded our trans-atlantic flight at 9:30 pm on Wednesday. Jess watched a movie while Andrew slept. Constantly.

After traveling for over 24 hours, we have finally settled down just outside of Liverpool, in a little Rotary hotel called Devonshire Place. How British! Jess keeps talking about the British cows on the countryside, but Andrew maintains that they are just cows who happen to be in the UK, not British cows.

The hotel is lovely, as is the view from our window! Everyone of course speaks with a distinct British accent, which is strange to Jess to be coming out of real people rather than a tv character. At the airport in Heathrow, Jess was extremely confused when asked if she wanted her tea "fa'ear" or "take-away." We're also meeting tomorrow for breakfast at half eight! The concert on Saturday is going to be a "bit of a do" and we'll be fed a traditional "steak and strawberries barbecue."

Stay tuned for more adventures!